Finland is a pioneer in new materials in the textile industry. There are now a number of Finnish companies driving the evolution. Why Finland?

PK: “Finland definitely is a pioneer in at least one material segment. That is the bio-based materials, and especially cellulose. One of the reasons is that we have a lot of essential knowledge from a slightly different field, namely the forest industry. Companies have been able to apply this forest industry knowledge into the material innovation.

This is an important issue for both the business and academic worlds. We are able do utterly fascinating things when the basic research is conducted well. The value of basic research must not be underestimated because the results of basic research can be applied to different areas.”

The global textile industry is facing great challenges. What can be done now and who has the biggest responsibility: the governments, the companies or the customers?

PK: “No one can do it alone. Legislation is needed in order to make changes happen faster. I am not a fan of the word ‘consumer’, I like to talk about people. With people we have to understand that change in behaviour is relatively slow. On the other hand, when I look at the changes in my own lifetime or the last 40 years I see that a lot has changed.

For companies the change is a complicated issue as it is often hidden from the customers. Supply chains are long and complex. It could be that a factory modifies their fabric dyeing process and that has enormous impact on sustainability but not until the partner companies start using fabrics produced with that process and customers buy those products. In that process the people have more power nowadays. All and all, everyone needs to be part of the solution.”‍

For years Finland and Aalto University was known internationally for its creative talent. Now the buzz is about the new materials and innovations. How do we combine the two?

PK: “This is a big question. We might put emphasis on the design and add the material components or use the materials as a starting point adding a creative input and both approaches might have a similar result. I feel that in the industry there is still too much greenwash and true sustainability is lacking or not properly communicated. This is another question of balance. The business version of this question might be to find the balance of creating a buzz or interest but still remaining credible.”‍

You have had a wonderful career as a professor in Aalto University with many high points. Name a project that has made you especially proud?

PK: “I would say I am most proud about the collaborative spirit that we have established. A single thing would be the Global Challenge Award won in 2016 which was also a result of a wonderful collaboration that transcended fields of research and partners. Aalto University itself was founded on that idea of transcending school borders. The power of collaboration is just astounding.”

Glasshouse Helsinki features a theme every week. The theme word of this week is ‘imperfection’. How do you relate to imperfection in design or research?

PK: “Imperfection is essential, you can’t avoid it. In conversations with students or designers I often notice that they all want to be perfect. But that is not interesting and that is not even possible.

Imperfection is what is interesting. To truly create something new, you must tolerate imperfection. This goes for design but for basic research, too, which by the way is a very creative field in itself!”